Bream, ungutted, salted and dried, Schultheiss

This bream is dried whole, without gutting. Fat from the belly soaks into the meat, and the taste comes out denser and richer than in a gutted fish.

There is often roe or milt inside — for many the best part and the reason to choose an ungutted fish. A slight bitterness near the belly is not a defect; if it bothers you, the belly can be left aside.

An ungutted bream takes longer to pick than a gutted one, and leaves your hands greasy.

Schultheiss is a German fish processor; the perch, roach and blue whiting on this shelf come from them too.

Sold by weight. Store in a cool, dry place, not in an airtight bag.